Operation Ghana

Friday January 25, 2008

Two Little Anointed Hands Productions

Did I write about the oranges? Wednesday we walked through Mampong. We bought three oranges for 20 pesewa (pay-sway). Curry asked the woman to peel the oranges. They take a knife and cut off the outer rind, but leave the pith and slice off the top. Then you squeeze the orange and drink the juice.

When Leah and I finished the oranges we realized there were no garbage cans anywhere. I asked Curry where we should dispose of the rinds. He said, “just drop them on the ground.” Do you know how trained we are not to litter? I couldn’t do it! Finally I saw some tall grass and I set one down when no one was looking. (ha ha) Or so I thought. Leah said, “Mom!!! Did you just drop that orange?” She was appalled. I said the only thing I could say, “Curry told me to! He said there’s no garbage.” Just blame Curry for all of the garbage in Ghana LOL.

Yesterday at the salon Aaron was looking at Leah’s glasses and realized that one of the screws was stripped and about to come out. When we got back home he found a large safety pin – (boo!) Then I started thinking, the suitcase I brought is the one I always use for my Signing Time travels… maybe!!! So I looked in all of the pockets and even under the lining and I found 2 smaller safety pins and 2 paper clips. My husband MacGyver AKA Aaron cut down the paper clip and made it into what looks like a tiny staple and saved the day!

This morning we got up to meet the headmaster at the high school.

He had told us to be there at “8AM white mans time” which is supposed to mean 8AM on the dot! LOL – Little do they know! So we got up there and waited 50 minutes and finally we gave up and left. (Maybe that is white man’s time!) We walked to his home and found him there. On the way to his home we passed the Mampong YMCA. We coudn’t help ourselves!

We also saw this tantalizing sign in front of a restaurant.

Alex and Leah marvel at the giant termite mounds.

Leah’s new favorite drink is Fanta in a bottle. When you stop somewhere to buy a bottled drink you cannot leave with it. You must consume it on the premises so that you can return the glass bottle when you finish it. Your options in a small village are Fanta (orange) or coke. When you get out the city you can find Fanta Fruit Cocktail, or Fanta Limon or Coke Light, Sprite and Pepsi. Alex and Leah have started a bottle cap collection.

Today we hired a tro-tro to go to Aburi and Accra. A tro-tro is like a mini bus that is built to seat about 20 or more people.

This is their public transport system. When you get in a tro-tro expect to be crammed in. They always look like they are completely full and then some! Not like the American way of making sure you leave an empty seat between yourself and the next person. Since we hired ours, we had plenty of room, which made the locals look at us. I wish we had a sign that had said “Private Tro-Tro” so that when we passed the hundred of people waiting for one or locals trying to flag ours down they don’t think the obruni’s are snobs. We had a driver and two guides, there was one more fella… maybe he was just along for the ride, we never figured out who he was or what he was doing.

Our first stop was Aburi. Along both sides of the road are wooden shacks and each shack has hand carved wooden items for sale.

This was our first shot at bartering. In most cases you can easily negotiate to pay half their starting price. Leah wanted a 2 cedi bracelet. I wanted a 4 cedi bracelet and an 8 cedi necklace. I ended up getting them all for a total of 8 cedi. Then if the others in your group are buying from a shack you have already purchased from, it helps there pricing as well. “My friend already spent 8 cedi here…”

My best friend Natalie had asked me to bring her home and elephant figurine for her elephant collection. Each shop may have similar items, but each shop has it’s own artist. They beg you, “Come to my shop! Come in and see! Today I give you good price!” Here is an unwritten rule of bartering. If they say one price, like 10 cedi, and you counter with something like 4 cedi. Even if you are about to walk away, which is almost ALWAYS the case, and they agree to the price you have said, (4 cedi) you must buy. So if you are going to say a number, make it a low one! I was walking away when the woman with the jewelry said, “Ok, final price 8 cedi.” Which was the amount that I had thrown out originally.

Back to Natalie’s elephant… I found an elephant for her but I wanted one that had its trunk up in the air, that is supposed to mean “good luck” and I wanted one with tusks. Leah hollered to me from a shop and she was holding an elephant. Sure enough it was smooth and detailed. There were only two young boys in this shack. “Who carved this elephant?” I asked, completely assuming they would say their father or uncle. The younger boy answered quietly, “I did.” I don’t think I hid my shock well at all! He is 12 years old and his name is Alfred. “Can I take a picture of you holding it so I can show my friend who carved it?” “Oh, madam.” He looked down and shook his head. “Please!” I pleaded. He reluctantly took the elephant I had been pushing toward him and I snapped a photo of the young, talented wood carver.

The experience at Aburi was meant to prep us for Accra. The trip to Accra was close to 2 hours. Since we came down from the mountains, it was much hotter. I would NEVER drive here! You know how when there is traffic, you wish you had the nerve to drive on the shoulder of the road? Well, here they do and that’s not all, they drive anywhere and everywhere they can fit their car. They don’t have sidewalks, but if they did they would be driving on them. Taxi drivers make 20 cedi a week. The owner of the car makes 200 cedi per month. When we take a taxi from one town to another it costs about 10-30 cents per person.

As we drove I jotted down some of the most spectacular storefront names. I swear I did not make up a single one of them. They are real!

Genius College

Best Remedial School Now

Your Will Be Done Electrical
Amen Driving Institute

The Lord Is My Shepherd Mart

Promised Land Fashions
Only Believe Floral Works
Gloryland Construction
Still God’s Way Electrical & Rewinding Works
Friend of Saints Enterprises
Allah Is Great Food Joint

Not I But Christ Fashion
Lords Grace Boutique
Only God Auto Parts
Heavens Motor Driving Academy
God’s Time Is The Best Bread and Buns

God First Motors
Lordy Pharmacy
By His Grace Cosmetics
Wise Way Cleaners
God Is Good Mobile Phone Repairs
Glorious Inn
Grace Bakery

Anointed Hands Salon
The Lord Is My Shepherd Special Rice
All The Time God Is Good Mobile Phones
Everything By God Upholstery Works

God’s Gift Bicycle & Steel Benders
Jehovah Is Aware Rubber Stamp Printing
Mustard Seed Entertainment
and my top 3 favorites are:
Anointed Choices Cafe
The Blood of Jesus Bicycle Workshop
The Lord Is My Shepherd Saw Sharpening

So, next time you are trying to come up with an unforgettable name for your business, just take a look here and you are sure to be inspired!

We drove in past the airport and went to a larger shopping area and boy did we get oburuni pricing! I wanted 2 yards of batik fabric. I was told I could only buy 6 yards and the price would be 45 cedi! Hmmm, 6 yards would make dresses for me and Leah and head wraps and still have 2 yards left over for a baby wrap. But I didn’t want all of that in the same fabric. PLUS, are you kidding me? Am I supposed to believe that every woman I see wearing a dress spent 45 cedi for it? (Basically $45) I countered with 10 cedi. She countered that with 44. Why did I have the feeling we may not find middle ground? Charles and DonKwa were with us to advise on pricing and keep the 8 of us from getting lost or at least do their best. One of them stayed in front of us, and the other stayed behind us.

I did see people in wheelchairs in Accra. I hadn’t seen a single one in Mampong. I was talking to a man in a wheelchair and I told him my daughter is in a wheelchair. He asked why she was in a chair and I told him she has cerebral palsy and spina bifida. I asked, “How about you?” He said, “I had polio.” My brain practically froze! I know a lot of people who use wheelchairs and pretty much everyone has spina bifida or cerebral palsy or some sort of spinal cord injury, but to hear someone say “I had polio”??!! Crazy!

I bought an ebony carving of a pregnant woman carrying a water jar on her head. I also bought a wood carving called “lovers”. I bought an agate necklace and a beaded necklace for Leah. Then I found a great batik! Brown fabric with batik daisies on it, I bought 2 yards (he cut it) for 6 cedi!!! Heidi ran in and bought some fabric too. As we left we saw a monkey playing next to a chain link fence. A monkey in downtown Accra! That stop is more of a tourist attraction.

Next we went to the streets of Accra. There were shops that were set up in, on and around broken down cars. Cars were driving on sidewalks. Gutters full of who knows what. A parade of 8 oburunis making their way through masses of cars, people, fruit stands and peddlers selling everything you can imagine from atop their heads. Every few yards the stink of raw sewage, and worse, would smack you upside the head. Walking into one wave of unspeakable odor I started to run, just to get through it faster. I heard Aaron gag loudly behind me. He began running as he held Leah’s hand. Leah’s other hand held her nose. Leah had tears in her eyes, “Mom, it smells SO bad!!!” Derek and Alex had fallen a little ways behind. When they hit the wave of odor they were blindsided Alex pulled his shirt up over his nose, but the smell was too strong. Poor Alex lost his lunch inside his shirt! The worst part was, not knowing when a wave of stink was about to strike.

Fish heads, avocados, citrus, plantains, popcorn, whistles, loofahs, handkerchiefs, eggs, cabbage, yams and baggies of water. We weaved in and out. Babies wrapped on mothers backs. Dried fish, brown rice, cloth, spices, cooking chicken, men on bikes with boxes of ice cream, plantain chips, Tic Tacs, Mentos, and Wrigley’s gum. Oh My! Heidi was looking for shoes, Curry needed to exchange money. Aaron and Leah were looking for soccer jerseys and Alex desperately needed a new shirt.

To keep up with the fast winding pace, Alex was piggy backed on Derek. This seemed to cause the biggest circus. I doubt if many of these people have seen a white kid in their entire life. Then to see one age 9 riding on his FATHER’s back? Can you imagine the absurdity? Ah yes, back in America children of all ages are carried on their father’s backs. LOL No wonder Derek and Alex got so much attention. Leah with her braids may have simply passed as an albino. The trek was exhausting. The experience was a sensory onslaught. At one point Alex pointed across a busy intersection yelling, “Rachel, Rachel! Look!” I looked but I had NO idea what he was pointing at, it could have been any number of things, brooms, sandals, old video game consoles?
“What Alex?” I asked confused.
“Do you see them?” Alex asked. “There are two white people!”
After 4 days even we are stunned to see such light skin. Just like the Ghanaians we stood, pointed and called to one another – “White people!!”

Speaking of Alex there is one bartering story I have to share. Derek and Alex found a red necklace for Emilie at the earlier “tourist” shacks in Accra. The man started at 18 cedi. (NO Way!) Derek came back at 8. (my recommendation) The man came down to 10. Then back and forth they went. “8” -“10” – “8” – “10” “8!” – “10!”
“How about 8?”
“I will only take 10.”
Alex was holding the necklace, he looked up and said, “Hey guys… what about 9?” Both men smiled. The store owner put out his hand and gave Alex five. Yes it sold for 9.

Winding through Accra, you don’t want to miss anything visually. Add to that you are listening for words you understand and accents that sound like an entirely different language. Hearing Twi, an entirely different language. Looking to be sure no one has fallen behind. Trying not to step in anything too gross. Scanning the crowd to find our guides. That is what I mean by sensory assault. Always second guessing everything you might want to eat. Papaya, pineapple, avocados, bananas… do I want to eat it NOW bad enough that I can justify being sick to my stomach tomorrow. Or should I hold out for beef jerky, trail mix, Cliff Bars and peanut butter and honey sandwiches?

Curry got his money exchanged. Heidi found the shoes but they would only agree to sell her 4 pairs of them… 4 pairs!! What? Are we that lame to people who visit our country? I hope not! She didn’t buy them. Alex got a Ghana “Black Stars” soccer shirt. Yes, their team is called the Black Stars Wearing this shirt drew even more attention! “Hey Ghana!!!” People yelled at him. Still riding his dad’s back, a number of people swatted Alex’s rear as they passed. Aaron and Leah found jerseys as well. DonKwa had told Aaron that 15 cedi is a good price. One woman said she would sell it to us for 25. When we did not buy it from her she was angry and started waving her hand at us, “Go away from my shop!” We continued to weave, duck and dodge through packed streets. Jewelry, shoes, bras, house wares, mattresses and clothing stands that looked like they were selling our latest donations to Red Cross. There was a movie production house, toy stores – but not very good toys, hats, bandanas and many, many items with their soccer team on them. In the heat and thick air it was exhausting! As we made our way back to where the tro-tro was parked, I saw some jerseys that looked Leah’s size. “How much?” I asked the young girl who was maybe 10 years old. “5 cedi” she answered.
“I’ll take one!’ I was too tired to remember that I was probably being ripped off. Or maybe she was too young to realize she could ask for 2 weeks worth of work. Or maybe 5 cedi IS 2 weeks worth of work! Either way I was SO DONE!!! I handed her a 5. She handed me the shirt and we wound our way back to the tro-tro.

To get your attention people hiss. I am not kidding. Put your teeth together and make a loud SSS sound. It works. You look.

When we got back to the tro-tro the driver was asleep in the front seat and another man was asleep on one of the middle benches. Huh? I don’t think he was with us! Whatever. We started the journey back to Mampong.

It was after 4PM and the traffic was terrible, plus we had to travel through construction. Now imagine 4 lanes of traffic going one way and a few of those lanes are entirely invented and you job is to sell things as the cars drive by… No not selling at an intersection as cars stop, but up and down the entire highway! Four lanes of cars and three to four lanes of people selling. We bought dried plantain chips, 10 bananas, and everyone got a Fan Milk, which is ice cream in a bag. To handoff and get paid for 8 Fan Milk, that guy must have run half a mile with a 4” X 12” X 2’ box on his head – are you kidding me? Now THAT is a talent!

The drive home was long and we could see again how much smoke is blanketing atop Accra. Seeing it makes you want to stop breathing. I can’t imagine what a lifetime of breathing it does.

As we drove we saw big, beautiful houses with walls and barbed wire across the top RIGHT next to a lean-to with a tin roof. Along the roadside children run around, while goats and goats and chickens roam. People are cooking and selling food, but as we take closer look at their “stoves”, Aaron points out that the coals are held in wheel, from inside a tire. A large cooking bowl rests on top of the wheel. I had thought it odd to see so many places to buy tires, wheels and hubcaps. We think automotive, they think kitchen supply.

On the way Home we passed Rita Marley’s house. (Bob Marley’s wife.) It says on the date that it is her home, recording studio and record label.

The tro-tro was quiet when we arrived home. Leah had taken a far bench in the back to herself and had fallen asleep. Alex had his head on Derek’s lap. I was dreaming of a shower… believe it or not a well and bucket shower, but I wondered if I had the energy to do all of that work.

Marco greeted us on our arrival. He lives right next door. He said, “You look tired.” I smiled weakly and said, “I am SO tired! Without DonKwa and Charles we would have been eaten alive!” When I got…….. (I just used up an entire pen!!!!) When I got in the house, Leah was on her bed. I got her up and we washed our feet. It felt so good. We are going to have to have a post-Ghana pedicure. Every one of us has gross feet, blisters, cracking heels, dirt etc. Did I mention we wear sandals everyday?

Then dinner arrived… You just can’t wait can you? At first I saw one plate and I went to break the bad news to Alex and Leah, who wear playing a game on Alex’s bed. “Guys, dinner is here and we are having white yams, sauce and a hard boiled egg.” Alex answered happily, “I can eat a hard-boiled egg!!” We went to the table and I was very confused. Only one plate had what I described. The rest were yams, sauce and fish. Curry had warned us that they cook the fish whole and serve it with the head. The eyes are a delicacy. I passed the plate with the head on it to Aaron Also, typically they do not clean the fish before cooking it, yes it is cooked with all of its parts to add flavor and served that way. This one looked like it may have been cleaned or maybe it had a blowout while being cooked over a wheel, I don’t really know.

As we clear off full plates of food into a small garbage bag someone inevitably says, “You should eat your food – there are starving children in Africa.” As Aaron took out the garbage, I asked him to please carry it on his head. The bummer about dinner is, we still have to wash the plates even if we don’t eat the food. Doing dishes means boiling water for a minimum of 15 minutes, letting it cool enough to touch and then filling two large plastic bowls, one to wash and one to rinse.

The gal who had brought our food over was new. No one had seen her before… (Oh wait a gecko-esque lizard just came out of the ceiling moulding, ran across the wall and back up in the ceiling!! I hope I don’t have one of those in my suitcase!) So, usually they bring the food. Serve the food on plates and then leave. But tonight she was in the kitchen for quite awhile after we were served. We were pretending to eat in the next room. Finally Aaron got up to see if she needed help. She had filled two bowls with cold well water and said that she was staying to do our dishes. – UH OH! Now what? We are so busted! No one ate much of anything! Aaron told her that we usually do our own dishes. She was very quiet and shy. He asked, “Do you want to come out and say good-bye?” Now I started to panic! Alex and Leah were devouring a bag of beef jerky on the couch. Heidi was eating some of the yams. Robi had eaten the sole egg, which was meant for Curry because they know he does not eat fish. The rest of us began scooting and forking our food in a hurry and when she and Aaron came around the corner we all turned with our best plate-blocking stance to say good-bye!

I guess I can call it good fortune that we did not yet have a PB&H open face sandwich today. We had a box of Otis Spunkmeyer blueberry muffins this morning and tuna for lunch. I made 3 sandwiches and was now tired and hungry… not the best day for fish to show up. I had some freeze dried strawberries and bananas. Then I fell asleep on Leah’s bed in my clothes, without brushing my teeth.

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